What to do of Candle Leftovers?

A few friends want to know to what to make of the candle leftovers in their candle stands and almost-finished-pillar candles. Well I have a few tips for them here.

The leftover candles [let’s call it wax here] can be re produced into beautiful candles again and take the credit of making them on your own.

Before we begin with the process, things you’ll need are:

Wick [you can use the stationary twain], mold [any metal or glass cup which is heat resistant], mold release [cooking oil], scissors, holder [ice-cream stick, a spoon], color [wax crayons – borrow them from children]

Container Candle

  1. If you have the candle leftovers of different color, make pieces of different sizes.
  2. Take a glass tumbler [an old one probably, which you may not want to reuse] and fill it up with the pieces of wax.
    • you can either mix the different colors or stack each color in layers
  3. Press the pieces of wax firmly into the tumbler.
  4. Now poke a hole in the center and insert the wick.

Your designer Container Candle is ready to use. As and when the wick burns, the wax would melt and get firmer. No mess only beautiful candle.

Pillar Candle

  1. Double boil the Candle Leftovers.
  2. Once the wax has completely melted, remove it from the heat.
  3. You can use the wax crayons to add colors.
    1. Always use one shade darker than the leftover wax.
    2. Keep stirring until the crayon has dissolved completely.
  4. Let the wax cool for a couple of minutes.
  5. Prepare your mold by applying some oil in the inside of the cup so the candle release is easier.
  6. Pour the wax into the mold.
  7. Insert the wick. Since the wax is still in liquid form, support the wick with a holder. [Place the Ice-cream stick horizontally over the cup and let the wick stand by it]
  8. Let the wax cool for 6 – 8 hours.
  9. Once it’s completely cooled, pull the candle out of the cup.

Your Candle’s ready to use.

Happy Candle Making!

Getting Started with Making Pillar Candles

contributed by Alan Wallace, Peak Candle Supplies

These illustrated instructions will take you step-by-step through the process of making pillar candles.

Molded pillars are one of the most common types of candles we can make. To keep it exciting, there are many different shapes and sizes available to choose from. Aside from the different shapes and sizes, the molds are fabricated out sheet metal, aluminum, and even some are made of plastic, latex, or silicone. The largest selection is typically available in sheet metal. Sheet metal and aluminum molds are generally very durable and should last for years with very little maintenance.

The instructions presented here will utilize a mold that is fabricated from sheet metal. However, the procedure for aluminum molds is very similar. If you are using a plastic pillar mold, please see our instructions for plastic molds.

For wax selection, please visit our wax pages.

What you will need:

Step 1. Start by melting wax. You should be able to review and carryout these instructions while your wax is melting (refer to double boiler instructions). Before continuing, set up a double boiler to melt your wax.

2. Pass Wick Through Wick Hole

Select a wick of the proper size for the diameter of the mold you are working with. Thread the wick through the wick-hole in the base of the mold. Pass the wick through the wick hole. This should be pretty self explanitory.

TIP: If it is difficult to get the wick through the hole because it is frayed, try dipping the end in some molten wax and rolling it through your fingers to form a nice pointed end.

3. Secure Wick to Wick Rod

While keeping the wick within the wick-hole, tie one end of the wick to the wick rod. In the photo above, we have used a wooden skewer. However, the function is pretty much the same.

4. Secure Wick to Wick Hole

Secure the wick with a wick screw. You will need a Phillips screwdriver for the wick screw. Do not over-tighten the wick screw as it may cut the wick or damage your mold. The purpose of the wick screw is to simply keep the wick from sliding back through the hole, not to seal the hole (we use mold sealer for that). Your wick should be taught, but do not tighten to the point were it will cause the mold to warp. Trim the wick leaving about 1/2 to 1 inch of wick. Scissors or diagonal cutters work well for this.

5. Seal Wick Hole.

Using some mold sealer, seal the wick hole, wick screw and wick. This is to prevent leakage of molten wax. Press the sealer firmly into place to ensure a tight seal. It may help to lightly wind the wick around the screw before applying sealer. You don’t want to be able to see any wick.

6. Initial Pour

Once your wax has reached the proper temperature (175-185 deg. F. for most pillars), add your additives (if any), your fragrance oil, and dyes to the wax in the pouring pot and mix well using something such as an old wooden spoon. Once it is thoroughly mixed, and is at the proper temperature, pour the wax into your prepared mold. Have an old towel or some paper towels handy to catch any spills that may occur. Fill your mold to about 1/2″ from the top of the mold. Leave some wax in the pouring pot for a later stage, but do not return it to the heat source yet.

7. Poke Relief Holes

Allow to cool a bit until a surface has formed on your wax. At this point poke relief holes into the base of the candle to accommodate the natural shrinkage that will occur as the wax solidifies. The relief holes should be positioned around the wick as shown and should be poked to a depth of about 1 inch less than the depth of the candle. The exact number of holes is not important. The important point here is to provide a vent by which the contracting volume of wax can suck air through to make up for the decreased volume. Without these relief holes, you may get air cavities within the candle, the wick may get pulled off-center, or the external walls of the candle may become deformed.

You may need to poke relief holes several times during the cooling process to ensure that the vent remains open and clear. Insuring that they are open will make it possible to fill in the voids on the next step.

Allow the candle to cool completely to room temperature before proceeding to the next step. This cooling process may take several hours. On very large candles, it may take in excess of a full day.

8. Re-Pour to fill in void (sink-hole)

Re-melt the leftover wax from step 6. This time you will want the temperature to be about 5-10° hotter than the original pouring temperature. The hotter temperature aids adhesion between layers. Once, your wax is at the proper temperature, fill the sinkhole in your candle. Fill to a level just below the level of the first filling. Filling higher than this may cause a horizontal seam line to be visible on the exterior of your finished candle. Overfilling may also cause wax to seep down between the mold and the candle, resulting in an unsightly finish.

Allow the candle to cool completely before proceeding to the next step.

9. Remove Candle From Mold

Remove Candle From Mold. Remove the mold sealer and the wick screw. If cooled completely, your candle should slide out of the mold. If it does not slide out easily, then place the candle in a refrigerator for a period of about 15 minutes, then try again. The cooling will help the wax shrink even more and help it separate from the mold.

The end of the candle attached to the wick-rod is the bottom of the candle. Trim the wick on this end with a pair of scissors or diagonal cutters. You will want to trim the wick flush with the base of the candle.

If desired, you may level the base of the candle by placing the candle on a cookie sheet (one with sides will work best) that is sitting atop a pot of boiling water. Use the heated cookie sheet to melt away some of the wax until you have a flat base.

Trim the top wick (not shown here) to about 1/4.”

10. Enjoy

Your candle is now finished and ready to be burned.